Exceptional.  That about covers it.

When we came out to Omaha a few months ago to scope out places to live after our move here from Phoenix, my beautiful wife Ellen noticed V.Mertz Restaurant and suggested it for her birthday.  Ellen had her birthday dinner last night.

The young staff is skilled beyond their years.  The food was delicate and very well balanced.  The chef, John, visited our table to introduce us to the appetizer (a foamed Foie Gras that was amazing in its complexity, though just a tad over-chilled).  Chef John is an Omaha local who had the opportunity to serve his internship at Noma in Copenhagen after culinary school (yes, THAT Noma) and it shows in his work.

If you describe yourself as a “meat and potatoes” kind of guy, they certainly possess those ingredients, but the style is American cuisine with a French sensibility of plate display and portion size.  The meat portions were 6 to 7 ounces each and delicately displayed on the plates like an artist laying paint onto a canvas.  The flavors were sophisticated and well-paired–sometimes shockingly so.  For example:

• Malted Cocoa with the Froie Gras
• Pralined Walnut crumbles on the Sirloin, served over creamed carrot bisque painted on the plate with a brush
• Maple-laced oats and delicately pickled spinach with the duck breast (Ellen’s entree)
• Candied lemon zest, impossibly thinly sliced and set atop the roasted shallot aperitif
• Salted Shortbread crumbles and cognac-steeped baby figs with the Creme’ Brulee

So … culinary artistry to be sure, but the sparse plates, interesting combinations, and smaller portion sizes that are often associated with such displays are there as well.  Do not get me wrong–I loved it.  But the guest must know what to expect.  If you are in the mood for a 20oz ribeye with a heavily seasoned baker this is not the place to go.  You come here for a fine and artistic dining experience.

The bar was exceptionally well-stocked for a small restaurant–and they know it.  The exotic liqueurs and elixirs are prominently displayed in a wall of glass that separates the bar from the dining area.  Ellen had an Aviation, perfectly made, which is a gin martini made with Creme’ de Violette.  I had a well-selected and wide variety of Scotch to choose from.  I defaulted to my personal favorite, Glenmorangie 10yr–don’t mess with perfection.

Incidentally, not only is Glenmorangie 10yr my favorite Scotch overall, but it is, in my opinion, one of the best “food-lover’s” Scotches.  It’s mild, smooth character and hint of refreshing lemony citrus notes cleanses the pallet without overwhelming the taste of the food like some harsher, heavily peated, smoky, and spicy Scotches can.

Matthew, the General Manager and Maitre ‘d, was polite, friendly, and knowledgeable.  He also obviously loves his job.  Our waiter served us well–certainly competent, but also conspicuously “passing though.”  I mean no sleight in this personally, but I had the definite impression that food was not his true passion and that this was one job for him upon a largely different path.  Good for him.  Being a part-time waiter whilst in school is a cliche’ for good reason.

The restaurant itself was small and intimate.  There are no large tables and, unless you are planning on renting out the entire facility for a private gathering, I would not recommend parties larger than four. I did not count, but there cannot be more than twenty tables total.  For a fine meal, these are good things.  The restaurant is located in the Old Market section of Omaha and is in “The Passageway”–an almost subterranean alley of sorts in between a few other buildings (very cool).

Prices are fair:

• Cocktails $8-12 each
• Fine Scotch can be had for $12-16 (but can go very high indeed)
• Appetizers are $8-12
• Entrees ranged from the mid $20′s through the mid $30s
• Desserts are what you would expect, about $8

We each had two drinks, shared an appetizer and dessert, and enjoyed our own entree–all over nearly two hours–and escaped for less than $150 inclusive of tip and the odd “double-taxation” of businesses in this part of town (no doubt to pay for some sports stadium or other foolishness of governmental mismanagement unrelated to actual eating).  For us, a decent value and just the kind of thing that Ellen and I enjoy together.  We will enthusiastically return again.

Thanks for reading, be well.